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Michael, good question, how do you know? IMHO, knowledge gained from research is going to tell you what you need to know. Although I've never done business with Carver I am confident that I would if his business was closer. The most telling reason is that he is open about his policies and brings you into the ball park dollar wise with his quotes like, "...much lower than $XXK..." Carver also spends the money required to prove he is dedicated to his business (complete service center, large parts inventory, experienced help), this makes it seem likely that he won't be taking off after the sale. As far as price comparisons, the dealers here in Connecticut won't even try to discount. Nor do they really know the Kubota product line. As I was told when I went to look at the new Kubota L48, the msrp is the price, no cuts. I took the time to spec the machine the way I wanted it, and with each addition, it was msrp-take it or leave it. I then took the qoute to two other dealers, same thing, msrp take it or leave it. Some dealers won't even let you work the machine, "...you can drive it but you can't dig with it..." What's up with that? I avoid them like the plague (or is it mad cow these days). My Cub Cadet dealer actually has machines he'll deliver to your home so you can use them, under his supervision, and this goes a long way toward building respect and confidence. So, shop around and have fun doing it, ask a gazillion questions of mechanic and salesperson alike, drive 'em, get 'em dirty. But don't ever pay msrp if you can help it.

How do you know what and where is a good price
Kubota Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Ted Kennedy

Matt, my experience with the 7194 goes way back to December 1995. With the Cub Cadet brand loader and mower, both made by Woods, and low hours, and with all of its service up-to-date, you can expect about $14K. For those who aren't familiar with this model, it was the smallest Mitsubishi compact marketed by MTD under the Cub Cadet line. The 719X line consisted of several different versions; some with 2wd drives, two with selectable MFWD, I think 3 with gear transmission, one with hydrostatic drive. This tractor was sort of a big garden tractor on steroids, it is adequate for most tasks like mowing and non-pto driven 3pt duty. The 719X series are well made and dependable, and can pull most non-powered rakes, blades, etc. Not that it didn't have a rear pto, it did, and a mid also, it was just that the rear pto output was low (16hp if I recall) and couldn't drive much other than very small implements. This model has since been replaced by the 720X models having one pony more and some minor refinements. Anyone who has a garden around one to three acres in size would like this tractor, a larger garden or for serious landscaping, better look to the larger machines.

Value of Cub 7194
Cub Cadet
Replies 3 Post by Ted Kennedy

Don, I've owned several Cub compacts, two 7230's and one 7275. The 7230's were gear drive machines and have been upgraded by Cub Cadet to today's 7260 and/or 7265 models. The 7275 is now the 7305, a thirty horse three range hydrostatic with MFWD and represents many minor refinements over the earlier 7275. My machines were all cared for according to the maker's recommended service intervals, were washed & waxed after every job was completed, and degreased to remove grime and grit that can be abrasive and cause wear. This may be why they held up so well. I do know of Cub's that have had major problems due to abuse, dealer ignorance, and "lemon" defects. These are not the norm, any more than those are that affect other brands like NH, Deere, Kubota, MF, Yanmar, etc. From my experience, you can find a used 7275 with loader and hoe in the $17K to $19K range under 500 hours. Cub's best commercial compact, the 7360, does not have hydrostatic, it has a shuttle shift transmission that works very well (I prefer the hydrostatic), however, they are expensive and used machines are hard to find. It is a rare find in today's market to find a used compact in good condition for less than 80% of its original cost. Happy hunting.

Help Victim of JD Stick Shock
Yanmar Tractors
Replies 22 Post by Ted Kennedy

Phil, many thanks for the excellent response. While I never buy anything other than OEM, I've known plenty of people who go cheap - and pay dearly afterwards. I'm frugal at times, but try not to be stupid. Your response should be tattooed on the hand of every new owner when they pickup their receipt. Good information, thanks.

Hyd filter
Parts and Repair
Replies 9 Post by Ted Kennedy

Murph, having made my living designing the tooling that builds the "repulsive" helicopter for over twenty years, I got a kick out of reading your post. I once tried to explain In Ground Effect (IGE) and Out of Ground Effect (OGE) to new hires, hence the repulsive nature of the beast. They didn't have a clue. But you do know, that once OGE altitude is reached, helicopters do fly, or at least their airfoils do, all on their own. And I knew I liked you for some mysterious reason other than being a kindred spirit of the tractor and landscaping world, and now I know. Kolibri!

A very sticky situation
Website Operations Howto
Replies 11 Post by Ted Kennedy

Sam, the best source for agricultural products in my area is J. S. Woodhouse. They carry many fine implements and attachments by a variety of manufacturers, of particular interest to you would be Gandy's aerator line. You ca get a quote from Woodhouse - they're good people. See the link...

Core Aerator
John Deere Tractors
Replies 2 Post by Ted Kennedy

Chris, you didn't tell us if you are going with the NH unit, or another manufacturer. Also, if the hoe is a sub-mount unit or a 3pt hitch type. Most dealers will make the installation for you if you buy the hoe from them. In any event you'll need to either tap into your power beyond hydraulic circuit, or if you choose, mount a pto driven pump kit. Neither of these are very difficult, however, I caution you about loosening and tightening any bolts related to your cast differential housing. Should you need to remove any to make your installation, if you don't have a torque wrench, rent a good one and find the specific torque value for each fastener you'll be working with. I also use Locktite liquid pipe thread sealant instead of teflon tape because I've had one bad experience with tape debris in the system. The only down side is it takes quite a while for the sealant to cure. Go slow and read all instructions ahead of time and you should be OK.

Rear hydraulic hook-up
New Holland Tractors
Replies 6 Post by Ted Kennedy

Don, sounds like a resonable plan to me. I've always been partial to the 455 and haven't heard anything bad about them, they can power a big deck with relative ease. Of the compacts mentioned, I really like the 955. These two would make a very versatile combination. I know you'll give whatever you buy a good going over first, good luck.

Deere for mowing another for snow and dirt
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Ted Kennedy

Gill, compact tractor owners are not exempt from Darwin's theory of natural selection. Operating these machines in less than a thoughtful manner can result in some form of penalty (see Murph's latest on "Sticky..."). No matter what you buy, you'll have to accept its limitations, and not excede them. You'll be amazed at the versatility of the compact, but it may not be the right tool for the job you have in mind. I, like most people, don't have a built-in inclinometer - what looks like so many degrees of incline may in fact be much more. This is why you should mow up, and down, a steep slope whenever possible. "Ridge Running" is not for the faint of heart. Your homework has narrowed you down to several excellent machines, have you asked the dealers for an on-sight demo? Most dealers will be glad to let you try running the machine at your place, under their supervision, and you'd be surprised at how much you'll learn about the dealer and his product from this experience. This could help you narrow the field in a hurry. Longer wheelbase machines have some advantages over compacts, Cat D11's have some advantages over D6's, where do you draw your line? My best suggestion to you is "try before you buy."

Compact Tractor Stability
Tractor Projects
Replies 6 Post by Ted Kennedy

John, I've used, without success, the following brands of lawn vacuums: Troy Built, Cub Cadet, and Sears. I also used a power broom but had customer complaints regarding damage to grass or incomplete removal. I then heard about Billy Goat, not the kind that has four legs, but the self-propelled kind. This manufacturer builds the best debris vacuum on the market and pine needles don't stand a chance. I recommend the VQ1002SP for its incredible suction, mulching, and huge bag capacity. Check out the link provided.

Picking-up Pine needles
Garden and Landscape
Replies 14 Post by Ted Kennedy

Dave, in addition to the grapple described by Murph, Woods makes a combined grapple and bucket. I prefer this unit because it has a flat bottom, similar to a bucket but without full sides and a split grapple on top. The split grapple has independent hydraulic cylinders and can grasp objects of various shapes without stressing the way a fixed grapple does. This unit can grasp everything from concrete blocks to brush. I also have the loader converted to accept skid steer attachments.

Hydrolic pincher grabber
Operating and Attachments
Replies 9 Post by Ted Kennedy

Bob, I had a similar problem storing implements at my last home. I solved the problem with the help of a friend and by using basic woodworking skills. The back of the garage bay was turned into a multi-level shelf constructed of 4x4's for up rights, and 2x6's for supports and stretchers. I used 2x4's for the actual shelf and covered them with 3/4 plywood. Everything was lagged into the garage framing or made to carry loads to the floor. On this system I stored a 6' York RS rake, a rear blade, a Woods 62" 3pt finishing mower, a 1961 7hp Cub Cadet garden tractor w/mower deck, and an assortment of smaller tools and machines like trimmers and chainsaws. I parked the tractor facing the shelf with my forks attached to the FEL, and the fork tines slipped under my FEL bucket. When I needed something I backed up, used the forks to lift the attachment from the shelf, went outside and made the switch. It was much cheeper than a new garage and I was able to fit my stuff in without the loss of walk-around space. I think the total cost was $450 and dinner for my friend and his wife.

Garage Space needed for Tractor
Operating and Attachments
Replies 10 Post by Ted Kennedy

Jon, generally speaking, you would need suitcase weights in lieu of your loader. If you feel that you need a bit more weight to keep your front from bouncing, put some heavy objects (stones or gravel) into the bucket. I don't see this as a problem or a big safety issue, you should be OK even in the toughest soil..

Ballast for tilling
Operating and Attachments
Replies 9 Post by Ted Kennedy

Howard, of course you know what you've just done? You've lifted the lid off of Pandora's box. You'll probably get a tremendous response to your questions. My take on this is that you can find a tractor that does it all, but ask why would you want to when you obviously have the lawn maintenance under control by using a service? Having said that I venture the guess that you may be looking for someone to do your heavy work and just have a compact for utility uses. Or, you could buy something like the excellent Kubota L48 that has the guts to do all but the heaviest work. An alternative to the L48 is the Kubota R series articulated tractor. The L48 has rear 3pt hitch capability and rear PTO, the R series machines don't, however, they can fit into tight places. I'm also thinking skid steer loader for the barn/paddock work, compact tractor for everything else. The possibilities on a piece of land as large and diverse in features as yours is almost limitless. In snow country you'll want a hard-sided cab with heat, for plowing, it is a must, and a compact can do this work nicely. I'd buy a good used 3-5 ton mason dump truck with fwd, they plow even better, you can put down sand/salt, and around a big place they have great utility. They also make great tow vehicles. Shopping for a tractor isn't any different than shopping for a watch, what do you need (Rollex precision or Citizen dependability)? What do you like (work hard or hardly working)? What are you comfortable with (lots of flash or practical)? How much do you have to spend (remember, you do have 100 acres)? My grandfather ran a sucessful small dairy farm about the size of your place with a 1941 stake dump body GMC and a 1939 2 cylinder Johnny Popper, listen to the good folks here, with their advice and today's technology you'll have a ball. Good luck, E-mail me if you want to know more.

help need tractor size type and attachment guidance
Operating and Attachments
Replies 8 Post by Ted Kennedy

Gary, the Cub Cadet 7195 is Cub's smallest compact tractor with hydrostatic drive and MFWD. A resonable price for a low hour (500 hours or less) machine with just a mower is about $9,000 to $10,000. Prices go up if equipped with loader or other attachments. Some food for thought: it is a Mitsubishi manufactured tractor and has enjoyed a reputation for dependability. This model is a little shy on power, having only 19 net hp from its liquid cooled 3 cylinder diesel, and until recently, you couldn't get a backhoe with sub-frame for it. That has changed and you can get either the Cub Cadet, Woods manufactured, 6.5' hoe with sub-frame, or the unit direct from Woods sold as a Groundbreaker 6500. The current model is the 7205, having had the output bumped up by differet fuel metering and a compression change. If you put a factory loader on it you can expect no more than 600lbs of lift. You'll find that you may be hampered by this tractor's low (about 15 hp) rear pto output, and many shaft driven attachments can't be run by this unit, even though they can be lifted by the basic 3pt hitch. Another limiting feature to this tractor is its low hydraulic gpm rating, if you have it in mind to run a hydraulically operated attachment, you may want to look into a rear pto driven pump kit to boost the flow. They are also very light in weight, to get more traction, a rear weight box or tire ballast is a must. Pay close attention to the battery and battery hold downs for corrosion, check behind the battery for corrosion of the radiator core. For some reason, Cubs corrode their batteries and the metal in the general battery location, if not properly cared for. Some dealers refused to inventory this model because they felt it was too small and under powered. This attitude has changed over the years due to the fact that many owners don't need the extra weight, size, and power. They are good little machines and make on heck of a garden tractor, good luck.

cub cadet 7195 value
Cub Cadet
Replies 2 Post by Ted Kennedy

Rick, I will be paid, that is the key that keeps the insurance from paying out. When, is the question. The courts in my state allow municipal governments wide latitude in payouts if they can prove to the court that to do so will adversely affect the residents. My attorney, and those representing the thirty other contractors don't want us to muddy the waters with discussion so I'll have to leave things as they are. Thanks for the interest, good thing I still have my day job.

Almost The End of the Road Bonds and the Dangers of Non-Returnables
Garden and Landscape
Replies 6 Post by Ted Kennedy

John, I'm coming in late on this thread and really don't have too much to say except that Murph is right about the dump method. Every stone drive I put in I have the driver set his dump gate and drive out. If you have a 500 foot stone drive, and a good tractor, purchasing a rake really isn't out of the question. I've found the best way to maintain a stone drive is with the rake. Using the bucket heel is marginally better for back grading with a small machine because it places less stress on the bucket curl cylinders, using the front edge or lip puts on the most strain. When I started landscaping I used the bucket exclusively for back grading on dirt and on stone, and wore one out at 1200 hours. A $300 used york is a lot cheaper.

Stone Driveways
Garden and Landscape
Replies 32 Post by Ted Kennedy

Bruce, I own two Worksaver products, a skid steer fork attachment and a hydraulic auger for my backhoe. The 3pt and/or loader fork attachment you refer to is for Category II 3pt hitches. If you have a CatII hitch this attachment should work well based on my experience with Worksaver products. You would need to have the optional loader brackets, and maybe also the hydraulic top link for the 3pt hitch. I use the Kasco Uni-Hitch and the Kasco Switch Hitch, the Uni-Hitch converts my FEL to accept skid steer attachments, and the Switch Hitch adapts 3pt hitch attachments to the skid steer adapter on my loader. Having the Switch Hitch also enables me to mount a 3pt fork unit to my loader if I needed to. But this is an expensive way to go. Explore the Worksaver product at the link provided.

making a 3 point carryall fork need help
Operating and Attachments
Replies 23 Post by Ted Kennedy

Mark, I'll add to Bird and Tom's good advice and say that if the sound you hear is from the pressure relief system, and it is all of the time, then you have a serious safety issue as well. The next step is to determine which relief valve is at fault. Some machines have a relief valve integral to their loader control valve, and often as not, another can be found mounted to the frame of the loader itself. If you have a backhoe or other hydraulically operated attachment, then it probably has a relief valve also. All pressure relief valves in your hydraulic system must be adjusted and operating per your maker's specifications, just one being off or inoperable will cause problems throughout the system and you'll always hear the screeching noise. If they aren't right, and you try to lift a load or operate an attachment, the cylinders will drop pressure and you'll have to contend with the outcome of that failure. The test is simple, have your dealer connect his pressure test set and run Deere's test sequence. Relief valve replacements usually run anywhere from $35.00 to $75.00, if it is just an adjustment, then its the cost of labor. If the noise is a constant whine, but alternating in tone, it may be the normal sound of your hydrostatic drive-something we've all learned to live with. At any rate, you owe it to yourself to be sure you don't have a safety issue. Good luck.

JD 855 hydro pump quot whining quot
John Deere Tractors
Replies 8 Post by Ted Kennedy

Thanks to BrentB for the excellent explanation of how bolts and threads work, moreover, thanks to Jim Reichard for his observations too. I'm going to go out on a limb and say the problem is closely related to Jim's observations. I, too, have seen this loose bolt thread to tapped hole condition far too many times on assemblies made for aerospace by Asian manufacturers. And judging from the incredible number of posts regarding what I see as manufacturing shortcuts or poor QA by Deere suppliers I'm inclined to believe the poor thread scenario. With the wheel off, engage the first third of the wheel bolt threads and wiggle. If it does wiggle excessively (side to side delection as great as half or more of the bolt diameter) chances are you've found your problem. You might try new/different bolts for a better fit. As far as a fix, locktite is the economical solution, anything else requires some potentially expensive fixes depending on why the fit is loose, especially if it is in the hub threads.

4300 wheel bolt problems
John Deere Tractors
Replies 72 Post by Ted Kennedy